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		<title>Blomax on Warm IR Heating Tubes</title>
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				<title>Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 4</title>
				<link>http://warm-ir-heat-tube.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sig-blomax-4/</link>
				<pubDate>Thu, 23 Jul 2026 10:58:59 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://warm-ir-heat-tube.com/images/1ff23f80a50c13c18fe09773d0c38f03.png&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 4&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;getting-more-out-of-your-sig-blomax-4-without-buying-a-new-machine&#34;&gt;Getting More Out of Your SIG Blomax 4 Without Buying a New Machine&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don&amp;rsquo;t always need to rip out your entire setup just because a SIG Blomax 4 is starting to feel its age. Most of the time, the blower itself is doing just fine. The real headache? The heating oven.&#xA;It usually comes down to the infrared lamps. These things control the temperature of your preforms, and if they&amp;rsquo;re worn out or just weren&amp;rsquo;t built for the speeds you&amp;rsquo;re running now, you&amp;rsquo;re never going to hit your production targets. You&amp;rsquo;ll just be fighting the machine all day.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The Nitty-Gritty on Power&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If you&amp;rsquo;re swapping in new lamps, they have to fit the &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;original&lt;/a&gt; footprint and electrical load. Nobody wants to spend &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;their&lt;/a&gt; afternoon replacing blown fuses or dealing with a fried power supply.&#xA;We lean toward high-wattage shortwave halogen tubes. Why? Because they react fast. You need that PET preform to hit its transition temperature in a heartbeat—seconds, not minutes.&#xA;One quick tip: if you crank up the wattage to move faster, keep an eye on your cooling fans. More heat in the oven means a hotter environment overall. If your airflow can&amp;rsquo;t keep up, your preforms might start to deform before they even hit the mold.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Quartz and Connections&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;We use heavy-wall quartz glass so the tubes don&amp;rsquo;t start bowing when things get scorching hot. They usually use R7s or similar snap-in connectors, which makes swapping them out during downtime a breeze.&#xA;Plus, the halogen cycle keeps the tungsten filament from gunking up the glass. It keeps the tubes clear. This is huge because it means the heat actually hits the plastic instead of getting trapped inside a cloudy tube.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;What This Actually Does for You&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;When you ditch those dim, tired lamps for high-output IR elements, everything tightens up. You get a much more even heat across the body of the preform.&#xA;The result? Your bottle walls stay consistent, and you stop seeing those annoying thickness variations. It&amp;rsquo;s a simple fix that lets you squeeze more bottles per minute out of an old machine without having to mess around with the PLC logic.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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				<title>Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 4/6/8</title>
				<link>http://warm-ir-heat-tube.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sig-blomax-4-6-8/</link>
				<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2026 03:41:42 +0800</pubDate>
				<guid>http://warm-ir-heat-tube.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sig-blomax-4-6-8/</guid>
				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://warm-ir-heat-tube.com/images/3d4a3d4a92b1ce7cc4373019fe6191a8.png&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 4/6/8&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;getting-the-heat-right-a-better-way-to-warm-your-pet-preforms&#34;&gt;Getting the Heat Right: A Better Way to Warm Your PET Preforms&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you’ve spent any time with a SIG Blomax (4, 6, or 8) or a Husky HyPET, you know the struggle. You&amp;rsquo;re trying to get the center of that PET preform hot enough to blow, but by the time the core is ready, the surface is already scorching.&#xA;That&amp;rsquo;s where you get those annoying pearlescent streaks or walls that are thick in one spot and paper-thin in another. It&amp;rsquo;s frustrating. You don&amp;rsquo;t just need &amp;ldquo;more heat&amp;rdquo;—you need the heat to actually get &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the plastic.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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